Automatic Bicycle Light

T his  automatic  bicycle  light  makes cycling in the dark much  easier (although you still need  to pedal of course). The circuit  takes  the  ambient  light  level  into account and only turns on  the light when it becomes dark.  The light is turned off when no  cycling has taken place for over  a minute or if it becomes light  again. The biggest advantage of  this circuit is that it has no manual controls. This way you can  never ‘forget’ to turn the light  on or off. This makes it ideal for  children and those of a forgetful  disposition.

Bicycle Light Image :

To detect when the bicycle is  used (in other words, when the  wheels turn), the circuit uses a  reed switch (S1), mounted on  the frame close to the wheel.  A small magnet is fixed to the  spokes (similar to that used with  most  bicycle  speedometers),  which  closes  the  reed  switch  once for every revolution of the  wheel. Whilst the wheel turns,  pulses are fed to the base of T1  via C1. This charges a small electrolytic capacitor (C2). When it is  dark enough and the LDR there-fore has a high resistance, T2  starts conducting and the lamp  is turned on. With every revolution of the wheel C2 is charged  up again. The charge in C2 ensures that T2  keeps conducting for about a minute after  the wheel stops turning. Almost any type of  light can be connected to the output of the  circuit.

Circuit diagram :

Automatic Bicycle Light Circuit Diagram

Part List :

Resistors
R1 = 1MΩ (SMD 0805)
R2,R4 = 100kΩ (SMD 0805)
R3,R6 = 1kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5 = LDR e.g. FW150 Conrad Electronics # 183547
Capacitors
C1 = 1µF 16V (SMD 0805)
C2 = 10µF 16V (SMD chip type)
C3 = 100nF (SMD 0805)
Semiconductors
T1 = BC807 (SMD SOT23)
T2 = STS6NF20V (SMD SO8)
Miscellaneous
S1 = reed switch (not on board) +
2-way right angle pinheader
BT1 = 3–12V (see text)

With a supply voltage of 3V the quiescent  current when the reed switch is open is just  0.14 μA. When the magnet happens to be in  a position such that S1 is closed,  the current is 3 μA. In either case  there is no problem using batteries to supply the circuit. The  supply voltage can be anywhere  from 3 to 12 V, depending on the  type of lamp that is connected. Since it is likely that the circuit  will be mounted inside a bicycle light it is important to keep  an eye on its dimensions. The  board has therefore been kept  very compact and use has been made of SMD components. Most  of them come in an 0805 pack-age.  C2 comes in a so called  chip version. The board is single sided with the top also acting as the solder side.

The print outline for the LDR (R5)  isn’t exactly the same as that of  the  outline  of  the  LDR  mentioned  in  the  component  list.  The outline is more a general one  because there is quite a variety  of different LDR packages on the  market. It is therefore possible  to use another type of LDR, if for  example the light threshold isn’t  quite right. The LDR may also be  mounted on the other side of the  board, but that depends on how  the board is mounted inside the  light. For the MOSFET there are also many alternatives available, such as the FDS6064N3 made  by   Fairchild ,  the  SI4864 DY  made by  Vishay Siliconix , the IR F74 0 4 made by IR F or the NTMS 4N01R 2G  made by ONSEMI. The reed switch also  comes in many different shapes and sizes; some of them are even waterproof and come with the wires already attached.

For the supply connection and  the connection to the lamp you  can either use PCB pins or solder the wires directly onto the  board. The soldered ends of the  pins can be shortened slightly so that they  don’t stick out from the bottom of the board.  This reduces the chance of shorts with any metal parts of the light. Do take care when you use a dynamo  to  power the circuit the alternating voltage must first be rectified! The same applies to  hub dynamos, which often also output an  alternating voltage.

Please Note. Bicycle lighting is subject to legal restrictions, traffic laws and, additionally in  some countries, type approval.

Download : 090102-1 PCB layout (.pdf), from www.elektor.com

Author : Ludwig Libertin (Austria) – Copyright : Elektor

Amplified Ear Circuit

Useful to listen in faint sounds, 1.5V Battery operation

This circuit, connected to 32 Ohm impedance mini-earphones, can detect very remote sounds. Useful for theatre, cinema and lecture goers: every word will be clearly heard. You can also listen to your television set at a very low volume, avoiding to bother relatives and neighbors. Even if you have a faultless hearing, you may discover unexpected sounds using this device: a remote bird twittering will seem very close to you.

Circuit Diagram:

Amplified Ear Circuit Diagram

        

Parts :

P1 = 22K
R1 = 10K
R2 = 1M
R3 = 4K7
R4 = 100K
R5 = 3K9
R6 = 1K5
R7 = 100K
R8 = 100R
R9 = 10K
C1 = 100nF 63V
C2 = 100nF 63V
C3 = 1µF 63V
C4 = 10µF 25V
C5 = 470µF 25V
C6 = 1µF 63V
D1 = 1N4148
Q1 = BC547
Q2 = BC547
Q3 = BC547
Q4 = BC337
J1 = Stereo 3mm. Jack socket
B1 = 1.5V Battery (AA or AAA cell etc.)
SW1 = SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)
MIC1 = Miniature electret microphone

Circuit Operation :

The heart of the circuit is a constant-volume control amplifier. All the signals picked-up by the microphone are amplified at a constant level of about 1 Volt peak to peak. In this manner very low amplitude audio signals are highly amplified and high amplitude ones are limited. This operation is accomplished by Q3, modifying the bias of Q1 (hence its AC gain) by means of R2.
A noteworthy feature of this circuit is 1.5V battery operation. Typical current drawing: 7.5mA.

Notes:

• Due to the constant-volume control, some users may consider P1 volume control unnecessary. In most cases it can be omitted, connecting C6 to C3. In this case use a SPST slider or toggle switch as SW1.
• Please note the stereo output Jack socket (J1) connections: only the two inner connections are used, leaving open the external one. In this way the two earpieces are wired in series, allowing mono operation and optimum load impedance to Q4 (64 Ohm).
• Using suitable miniature components, this circuit can be enclosed in a very small box, provided by a clip and hanged on ones clothes or slipped into a pocket.
• Gary Pechon from Canada reported that the Amplified Ear is so sensitive that he can hear a whisper 7 meters across the room.
• He hooked a small relay coil to the input and was able to locate power lines in his wall. He was also able to hear the neighbors stereo perfectly: he could pick up the signals sent to the speaker voice coil through a plaster wall.
• Gary suggests that this circuit could make also a good electronic stethoscope.

Source by : Streampowers

This is a powerful transmitter so first of all I would like to tell you not to use this for illeagl things.You can transmitt signals from 2km.Use a matching antenna for this.




Note

# Dont give power without an antenna
# For L1 make 3 turns of 1mm enamelled copper wire on a 10mm diameter plastic former. On the same core make 2 turns of 1 mm enamelled copper wire close to L3 and that will be L2.
# by using R9 the gain can be controlled
# Inductor L3 can be a VK220J type RFC.
# This circuit operates with 9V to 18V ( Dont pass 24V)

Valve Sound Converter

‘Valve sound’ is not just an anachronism: there are those who remain ardent lovers of the quality of sound produced by a valve amplifier. However, not everyone is inclined to splash out on an expensive valve output stage or complete amplifier with a comparatively low power output. Also, for all their aesthetic qualities, modern valve amplifiers burn up (in the full sense of the word!) quite a few watts even at normal listening volume, and so are not exactly environmentally harmless. This valve sound converter offers a cunning way out of this dilemma. It is a low cost unit that can be easily slipped into the audio chain at a suitable point and it only consumes a modest amount of energy.

A valve sound converter can be constructed using a common-or-garden small-signal amplifier using a readily-available triode. Compared to using a pentode, this simplifies the circuit and, thanks to its less linear characteristic, offers even more valve sound. For stereo use a double triode is ideal. Because only a low gain is required, a type ECC82 (12AU7) is a better choice than alternatives such as the ECC81 (12AT7) or ECC83 (12AX7). This also makes things easier for home brewers only used to working with semiconductors, since we can avoid any difficulties with high voltages, obscure transformers and the like:the amplifier stage uses an anode voltage of only 60 V, which is generated using a small 24 V transformer and a voltage doubler (D3, D4, C4 and C5).

Since the double triode only draws about 2mA at this voltage, a 1 VA or 2 VA transformer will do the job. To avoid ripple on the power supply and hence the generation of hum in the converter, the anode voltage is regulated using Zener diodes D1 and D2, and T1. The same goes for the heater supply: rather than using AC, here we use a DC supply, regulated by IC1. The 9 V transformer needs to be rated at at least 3 VA. As you will see, the actual amplifier circuit is shown only once. Components C1 to C3, R1 to R4, and P1 need to be duplicated for the second channel.

The inset valve symbol in the circuit diagram and the base pinout diagram show how the anode, cathode and grid of the other half of the double triode (V1.B) are connected. Construction should not present any great difficulties. Pay particular attention to screening and cable routing, and to the placing of the transformers to minimise the hum induced by their magnetic fields. Adjust P1 to set the overall gain to 1 (0 dB). The output impedance of 47 kΩ is relatively high, but should be compatible with the inputs of most power amplifiers and preamplifiers.

For a good valve sound, the operating point of the circuit should be set so that the audio output voltage is in the region of a few hundred millivolts up to around 1.5 V. If the valve sound converter is inserted between a preamplifier and the power amplifier, it should be before the volume control potentiometer as otherwise the sound will change significantly depending on the volume. As an example, no modifications are needed to an existing power amplifier if the converter is inserted between the output of a CD player and the input to the amplifier.

http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2012/04/valve-sound-converter.html